The beauty industry is increasingly talking about dermocosmetics as a new, better alternative for skin health. But what are they? The most important thing to start with: dermocosmetics are still cosmetics - they are subject to the same regulations, they are not medicines and they do not treat skin diseases. Products in this shelf are created for demanding skin: reactive, vascular, acne-prone, with a weakened barrier. They are designed to minimise the risk of irritation: a dermocosmetic does not promise miracles "for tomorrow"; it only cares for far-reaching effects. Here are the three fundamentals that most often distinguish dermocosmetics from ordinary face and body products.

1. healthy formulas.

The priority in dermocosmetics is skin health. This translates into shorter, transparent formulations, limiting fragrances and consciously managing pH formulas. Instead of intense sensory experiences, the focus is on stability and predictability: no migratory dyes, no strong essential oils, gentler surfactants in cleansing. Also key is the choice of carriers and emollients, which not only make the product apply better, but realistically support the hydrolipidic layer. With hygiene and sustainability in mind, airless packaging is often used.

2. Active substances.

Dermocosmetics rely on substances with a well-described profile of action and safety in predictable concentration ranges. In everyday practice, this means, among other things:

• Barrier reconstruction: ceramides accompanied by cholesterol and fatty acids , complemented by humectants such as glycerine and urea.
  
• Soothing reactivity: panthenol, allantoin, beta-glucan, madecassoside - ingredients that reduce discomfort and promote the healing of micro-damage.
  
• Regulation of glands and keratinisation: azelaic acid, PHA/BHA/AHA in usable concentrations, but designed for tolerance; in night products, forms of retinoids allowed in cosmetics.
  

Brightening and evening out colour: niacinamide, stable vitamin C derivatives, azeloglycine or liquorice derivatives.

3 Compatibility with therapies.

A good dermocosmetic is designed so that it does not interfere with medication and complements dermatological recommendations: moisturising with retinoid treatments, calming burning and tightness, reducing the tendency to flare-ups. Hence the emphasis on tolerance tests, studies on sensitive skin and consistent, simple application protocols. This is especially important in patients with acne, AD in remission or vascular hypersensitivity, where 'over-ambitious' care can undermine the effects of therapy. Dermocosmetics have a stabilising role here: they maintain comfort, support the barrier and allow the benefits of treatment to be enjoyed for longer without unnecessary interruptions due to irritation

How to read the label, for an informed purchase?

Start with the promised effect and check that the formulation justifies it. If the manufacturer accentuates the levelling of hyperpigmentation, look for niacinamide, stable vitamin C derivatives, azelaic acid or its derivatives. In exfoliating formulations, pH is key - too high will weaken the effect, too low will conquer the risk of irritation.

The entry in the INCI tells you the approximate amount of an ingredient (the higher, the more), but does not reveal the concentrations. It is worth paying attention to the carriers and emollients: volatile silicone or light esters will improve spreading, but it is the presence of lipids similar to those in the epidermis that will translate into real comfort for reactive skin.